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EDMONTON
A Pre-Holiday Getaway
by Toni Dabbs
With Christmas just around the corner, I wanted a getaway to a destination
where I could combine the serious side of the season with a holiday shopping
spree. The Canadian city of Edmonton, Alberta, filled the bill.
What made Edmonton especially attractive this year was "Anno Domini:
Jesus Through the Centuries," an exhibition that premiered at the
Provincial Museum of Alberta on October 7, 2000, and continues through January
7, 2001. I had the good fortune to be guided through the exhibition by curator
David J. Goa, who designed it as a thought provoking exploration of the impact
of Jesus on people, ideas, history and culture.
Goa spent the last three years assembling artworks and artifacts from 45
institutions world-wide. He chose each item for the way it portrays the
influence of Jesus on people in a particular time and place. The curator
emphasizes that the exhibition is about cultural perceptions of Jesus rather
than about Christianity.
"The tradition is here that people from every religious community should
be able to find something that touches their heart," he says.
Pieces that are his personal favorites demonstrate the variety of materials,
periods and styles represented: a 15th century Italian tempera and gold leaf
triptych by Fra Angelico; a 16th century alabaster sculpture of Mary Magdalene
from France; a richly enameled 19th century Limoges reliquary casket; and a 20th
century cross and candelabra altar set by Scottish artist Phoebe Anna Traquair.
Not all elements of the exhibition are tangible, though. An introductory
video relates events taken from television newscasts to the themes of the
Beatitudes from Jesus's "Sermon on the Mount." Music, ranging from
Gregorian chant to Gospel, drifts through the gallery. And listening posts
present appropriate recorded words of poets, politicians and playwrights.
Goa believes: "Demands on the mind and heart are such that visitors will
be disappointed if they don't allow themselves at least two hours to go through
the exhibition."
Not everyone can have the curator as a guide, so for those who want some
interpretation of the exhibition, Cameron Malcolm of Out an' About Tours offers
"The Anno Domini Tour." He accompanies guests through the exhibition
and also takes them on a cultural and heritage tour of the city that includes
visits to several historic churches.
I took another tour that he offers on a similar
theme, "The Eastern Rite Church Tour." We traveled to the Ukrainian
Cultural Heritage Village, 50 kilometers east of Edmonton, to examine the
craftsmanship and architectural details of its three churches: St. Nicholas
Russo-Greek Orthodox, built in 1908; St. Nicholas Ukrainian Greek Catholic,
1912; and St. Vladimir's Ukrainian Greek Orthodox, 1934.
These buildings, two with beautifully painted interiors, remain intact
because they originally stood in rural Ukrainian communities that were somewhat
isolated and were practically suspended in time.
Malcolm has over 17 years of experience as a historical interpreter in
Alberta, including seven years as a guide at Ukrainian Village. He also worked
for more than three years as a restoration carpenter at the village, so he
literally knows his subject inside and out.
Both the Provincial Museum of Alberta and the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage
Village have good gift shops, but I wanted to purchase a lot of presents, so I
asked some Edmonton residents to recommend a shopping area that would put me in
the Christmas spirit.
Several suggested Old Strathcona, near the University of Alberta. The
district has tree-lined brick sidewalks and heritage storefronts that give it
the character of an early 1900s village, which in fact it was.
Strathcona sprouted on the south side of the North Saskatchewan River when
the Calgary and Edmonton Railway Company decided to end its tracks there rather
than spend the money to build a bridge into Edmonton. In 1912, though, the two
cities amalgamated.
The locals didn't steer me wrong. The Edwardian era Richards Block, built in
1910, has the perfect facade for showcasing holiday ornaments at Kringles: A
Christmas Tradition. And many one-of-a-kind shops stock items not found just
anywhere, such as Alikatu, with arty frames and home accessories, C C on Whyte,
with decorations for house and garden, or Le Papier, with journals, cards and
stationery.
However, no Edmonton shopping spree would be complete without a stop at West
Edmonton Mall, still the biggest indoor shopping and entertainment center in the
world. The mall includes such well-known retailers as Benetton, Godiva
Chocolatier and The Museum Company, but I sought out the shops that I couldn't
find back home.
Christmas decorations in the window of Just Imagine caught my eye. Inside, I
discovered that the shop carries collectibles ranging from Seraphim Angels and
Fontanini Nativities to Seagull Pewter and Sandicast Sculptures.
I also found a number of gift solutions at Kites and Other Delights. The
combination hobby and toy store carries electric trains, radio control cars and
airplanes, slot cars, plastic models, Lego and other fun things that kids of all
ages like to find under the tree.
During my three-day Edmonton getaway, I didn't check all the names off my
gift list, but I made a good start.
Accommodations
Fantasyland Hotel at West Edmonton Mall has a special package that includes
one night's accommodation, continental breakfast for two, two admissions to
"Anno Domini: Jesus Through the Centuries" and a West Edmonton Mall
"Passport of Savings" coupon book. Prices start at C$119.
Phone 1-800-737-3783
www.westedmall.com
Contact
Edmonton Tourism
9797 Jasper Avenue NW
Edmonton AB T5J 1N9 Canada
Phone 1-780-426-4715
Fax 1-780-425-5283.
www.tourism.ede.org
The Provincial Museum of Alberta
12845 102 Avenue
Edmonton AB T5N 0M6 Canada
Phone 1-780-453-9100
www.pma.edmonton.ab.ca
Out an' About Tours
9127 77 Avenue
Edmonton AB T6C 0M1 Canada
Phone 1-780-909-8687
Fax 1-780-463-0743
www.outanabouttours.com
Photos by Toni Dabbs
Copyright 2000 by Toni Dabbs. This work, including photographs, is protected
by copyright and may be used only for personal non-commercial purposes. All
other rights are reserved, and commercial use is prohibited without permission
of the author.
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