Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky

by Patrick Gary

You just have to love the Japanese. It doesn't seem to matter what it is that interests them. Once they've latched onto something it seems to become their goal to find out exactly what makes the thing great and improve upon it. Computers? Great! Let's make them smaller and faster. Cameras? Great! Let's do the same with them. Cartoons? Cool! We can make them crazier, glamorous, diversify the audience to include adults, and then have the inventors trying to make shows like ours.

So how about whisky? It seems that the Japanese have a taste for Scotch. This dates back to at least the 1920s when two of the most influential figures in Japanese spirits were working together. Shinjioro Torii was a pharmaceutical wholesaler who started importing western liquor and emulating Portuguese wine. His goal, however, seems to have been to create a Japanese whisky for the Japanese palate. So he founded the first distillery in Japan in 1924.

He then hired Masataka Taketsuru as an executive for his company. Taketsuru had studied the art of distilling in Scotland and brought that knowledge back to Japan with him. He later left to form his own distillery in Hokkaido which has come to be known as Yoichi.

These two labels have truly taken the Scotch market by surprise. They both make single malt whisky that ranks among the best in the world. Suntory, the company that actually owns the Yamazaki label, has now twice won the best blended whisky award at the World Whiskies Awards in Britain.

So we've established that there are some guys in Japan who have figured this whole Scotch thing out. I read this and couldn't wait to find some. At the local liquor store, lo and behold, there was a Yamazaki Single Malt, aged 12 years, costing about $35. I got a bottle and then ran home to put on Ghost in the Shell and try it.

When I poured it at first I was actually a bit underwhelmed. The smoky, peaty, earthiness of a good Scotch is distinctly lacking. But as it sat for just a few minutes I discovered that it grew very fragrant with the scents of fruits. The taste was also a bit unexpected. There was little, if any, of the peaty touches I think of when I think of Scotch. However it did remind me of good, strong Irish whiskey. At 86 proof it did finish strong when sipped neat.

However the Japanese like their whisky with water and ice, and I seldom mind those additions myself. In fact, I've been told that most of the distilleries in Scotland encourage water or soda for their own drinks and that Scotch is intended to be consumed at around 70 proof even if it ships at 80+.

This is where the whisky got really good. Adding four ice cubes and letting it sit for a few minutes I could smell orange peel, berries, and honey. It took on much of the same character as Glenfiddich or the 12 year Glenlivet varieties. Slightly sweet, oaky, undeniably malty, and with tasty overtones. I could certainly see how this could be considered the equivalent of the Scotch single malts when allowed to open up.

This was my first foray into Japanese whisky, and it hopefully won't be my last. I wouldn't say that this is likely to replace my Glenkenchie anytime soon, but it is certainly a good whisky in the theme of the Speyside single malts.

- Patrick Gary is a software engineer by day, a musician at night, and spends the rest of his time devoted to experiencing as much life as he can find.