A Few of Paris’s Favorite “Intimate” Hotels
by: Karen Fawcett
Whether you’re in Paris for vacation or on business,
you may find staying in hotels where the desk clerks know your name and room
number as you walk in the front door more appealing than some of the giant
hotels. You’re greeted as a guest rather than as a potential intruder.
Within two days, the staff knows what you need and when you need it. This
type of service is hard to find in huge hotels where the hallways are so
long that either you get lost going to your room or can see forever.
Paris’s big convention and tourist hotels often feel as
if they’re annexes of railroad stations. People may physically be in Paris,
but they could be in Cincinnati. Not that’s there’s anything wrong with
Cincinnati, but it’s not Paris—and you’ve come to Paris.
Boutique hotels (typically, less than 50 rooms) are a
relatively recent phenomenon in the City of Light. Real estate developers
with deep pockets have come to the conclusion that converting a building
into a hotel rather than apartments gives them an ongoing source of income.
Rental apartments can be problematic since French law is so pro-tenant that
it can take months (sometimes years) to kick someone out even if he or she
hasn’t paid rent.
But don’t assume that a small hostel is a cheap hotel.
Some of them can cost as much as the Georges V or the Meurice. Here’s a
listing of some of Paris’s smaller Left Bank “boutique” hotels. They may not
offer room service 24 hours a day, but are generally charme fou. And
remember to check in here before your next trip because more and more of
these small hotels are opening all the time.
Hotel Luxembourg Parc
 This traditionally decorated hotel is in an ideal Left
Bank location across from the Luxembourg Garden and a short walk from St.
Germain des Prés. The hotel has been renovated to include every modern
amenity, but its 23 rooms are designed for people who appreciate classic
décor. The neighborhood is ideal for walkers, those who love sightseeing or
people on business who want to hop on the metro. If you have a meeting at
the Sénat, so much the better. All you need to do is cross the street. Try
to wangle lunch in the Sénat dining room. It’s some of the best “canteen”
food in Paris and you won’t even be able to pick up the check.
Hotel Des Academies et des Arts
 Not too many years ago, this 20- room hotel looked as
if it needed a wrecking ball to come in and improve its interior. Rich in
history, it’s located on a street where Modigliani had his studio and where
many artists of that era lived and worked including Gauguin, Boudelle,
Giacometti and so many other renowned painters and sculptors. Located in one
of my favorite parts of the 6ème, it’s a five-minute walk to Boulevard
Montparnasse and the Luxembourg Garden. The hotel’s owners made a conscious
decision to completely update the (now) non-smoking hotel while maintaining
its artistic feel. This is a hotel that’s a favorite among Europeans because
the US press has yet to catch on. They will and soon and this treasure will
no longer a well-kept secret.
Hotel d'Aubusson
 The four star Hotel d’Aubusson was converted from a
17th-century private home where many of its original architectural details
including a lovely collection of hand-made Aubusson rugs (now wall-hangings)
have been retained. The 49-room hotel was renovated to appeal to a demanding
upscale clientele who enjoy the more classical feel of antiques covered with
silk. Located between the Boulevard St. Germain and the Seine, it’s a magnet
for people visiting Paris to explore the antiques and art scene. One thing
that’s sure is there no bargains to be found in any of the galleries on Rue
Jacob and its surrounding area. One of the lovely things about the hotel
(not to mention the rooms, most of which tend to be very spacious
considering Left Bank hotel rooms are usually small) is the lobby. In the
rear, there’s an area where on winter days you can sit in front of a large
stone fireplace and enjoy an aperitif. The Aubusson also has an interior
courtyard where it’s a pleasure to linger on a nice day. And then there’s
the bar—a favorite meeting place that’s intimate enough to hold a quiet
conversation while listening to the pianist. The hotel’s staff is extremely
service oriented.
L'Hôtel
  Oscar Wilde died here at the sad end of his
mischievous, quixotic life and, finally, tragic life. If he saw the prices
now, he’d die again. This hotel has its own unique style that people either
love or hate. I happen to be among the former. Each of the 20 rooms has a
different décor. Some are over the top. The hotel’s roof is vaulted and lets
in light. One of the pluses of this hotel is not only its location, two
minutes away from Deux Magots, but the fact that it’s dining room now has
gained a Michelin star. The dining room with it banquettes, sofas and
traditionally set tables is enough to make people fall in love, and you can
eat in the lounge as well. Oh, this hotel probably has a unique feature for
its clientele. A swimming pool exclusively for two people and, yes, one has
to reserve. (Don’t be smart and ask which one.)
The Hotel Sainte Beuve
 This was a find that’s been—hélas—found. If only
journalists wouldn’t wax poetic (or at least keep in mind that Sainte Beuve
more or less means “Holy Cow”). Decorated by the office of David Hicks, the
lobby is inviting and there’s nothing garish about it or the rooms. Situated
less that a block from Boulevard Montparnasse, the hotel’s on a tiny, quiet
street. It’s not a bad idea to keep a map with you of the location if you
take a taxi. Some of Paris’s one-block long streets are mysteries to anyone
who doesn’t know the neighborhood.
 There’s a great emphasis on service here. The staff
goes overboard to make your Paris stay pleasant and proffers advice as where
to go and what to see. You can walk to the Luxembourg Garden in five minutes
or hop on the metro and numerous buses and be in the center of Paris within
minutes. Each Sunday, there’s the marché biologique (more or less an organic
farmer’s market) that is worth a detour. Walk all the way down to the end of
the vendors (near the Lutecia Hotel) and you’ll find one who makes
incredible potato galettes. Indulge in one that’s hot off the skillet.
You’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven. OK, what are a few calories?
This market attracts people from tout Paris. Catherine Deneuve is frequently
spotted shopping here, as are a many stars sporting oversized hats and
channeling Greta Garbo’s I vant to be alawn persona
A favorite restaurant of many who live in the quartier
is
Le Timbre - which means postage stamp and is two doors away from the
hotel. It has a limited menu but don’t worry about not knowing what you may
or may not be eating. The owner is British and cooks up a storm in a kitchen
that’s invariably smaller than the one you have at home. If you want to have
a private conversation, this is not the restaurant for you. The tables are
so close that it’s impossible not to have a conversation with your neighbor.
Clients who discover the Hotel Ste Beuve tend to become
repeat customers. Reserve as far in advance as possible. You won’t be
disappointed. And if you are, say something to the management. It doesn’t
want unhappy clients and many people consider this hotel their Paris home.
Esprit St. Germain
If elegant modern chic is your style, consider this
‘surprise’ hotel that’s housed in an 18th century building. Renovated from
top to bottom in 2004, the reception area is more akin to a living room
where people can mingle or simply relax.
Decorated in shades of brown, beige and gray, there’s
nothing ostentatious about the décor. But anyone who’s design conscious
instantly knows that no corners were cut when it came to selecting the
hotel’s furnishings, fabrics, carpets and more. Each bedroom is equipped
with everything the pickiest traveler could want—WiFi, a mini-bar, LCD
televisions and impeccably designed bathrooms.
Located minutes away from St. Germain des Prés, The
Luxembourg Garden and St. Sulpice, you’re in the middle of the best shopping
in the 6ème. Many of this hotel’s clientele gravitate here because they want
to be seen. And then there are others with the opposite desire who want
complete and total privacy.
These are six Left Bank hotels and there are so many
more.
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