The Big Island of Hawaii – an island of diversityby Caroline M. Jackson “I lay down on the floor. But a rat came and bothered me, and shortly afterward a procession of cockroaches arrived and camped in my hair.” Mark Twain’s colorful description of life aboard a schooner off the Kona coast in 1866 did nothing to endear my plan for an early morning cruise along the same coastline. Thus when my husband and I stepped aboard the spanking Fair Wind II catamaran, we were much relieved to find the vessel meticulously clean with nary a rat or cockroach in sight.
 Our destination was the protected waters of Kealakekua Bay. Having recently been swamped by a rogue wave which filled my swimsuit with sand and left my frog flippers ripped asunder, it was with some trepidation that I re-entered the ocean.
This time, however, I could gracefully walk down one of the catamaran’s stairways and dip into the crystal-clear blue waters in safety. The crew supplied our snorkel gear and flotation devices including boogie boards with viewing windows. I flippered my way towards my husband who was pointing below and attempting to communicate something unintelligible through his mask. I was so mesmerized by the living rainbow curtain beneath me that I had to remind myself to breathe. This extraordinary world was spangled with shoals of iridescent fish that constantly changed direction under the instructions of an unseen conductor. Every so often the current would draw me towards the coastline and I was comforted to note that the ship’s crew was keeping a close watch on their floating passengers. Resting on my back, I looked towards the Captain Cook monument built to commemorate the spot where 50-year-old Cook was killed in 1779.  We were now being beckoned aboard for lunch. Feeling very heavy after being buoyant for so long, I was ravenous and ready to enjoy a BBQ lunch accompanied by island fruit and fresh Kona coffee. All too soon, it was time to head back to the pier but my excitement for the day was not over. While watching the waves furrow at the stern, I noticed the adjacent fishing reel slowly begin to play out. Having weak wrists, I yelled for my husband and seconds later he and a couple of excited crew members were in charge of the situation. I extricated the camera from around my husband’s neck and quickly removed myself from the adrenaline-charged melee.
 Ten minutes later, an iridescent mahi mahi was hauled aboard, deftly filleted and placed in an ice box. When we returned to the pier, it was with some sadness that departed from the friendly crew.
For a change of pace, we took a short drive to the upcountry village of Holualoa 1,400 feet above Kailua-Kona. The cooler climate supports lush tropical vegetation and the landscape is dotted with feathery Norfolk pines. Bamboo canes rustle in the breeze and the perfume from plumeria assails the senses. A real eye-catcher is the historic bubblegum pink Kona Hotel. Nearby we visited some funky art galleries and a popular coffee shop. The notice board was stuck like a pincushion with cards promoting Buddhist retreats, yoga and all kinds of New Age therapies.  The following day we drove north from Kailua-Kona to check out the Hilton Waikoloa Village. This was no ordinary visit, however. Forget the posh reception desk or a boat tour of the four-acre Lagoon. Instead, we were on an underground tour of the operations centre which is the heartbeat of the comings and goings of over a thousand employees. Our guided walk took us along a one and a half-mile-long tunnel. En route we passed several friendly employees and a chef riding a giant tricycle with a large bakery basket. Like a rabbit warren, rooms opened off the corridor. My favorite was the pastry kitchen where chefs were creating delicate patterns on top of an assortment of cakes. One busy area was the drycleaners where carousels of spotless uniforms were kept in pristine condition by cheerful attendants. Near the exit we passed a luggage carousel where cases were being tagged for delivery to one of the 1,240 rooms.
 After returning upstairs to the sunshine, we were escorted over to the lagoon where a great treat awaited us – a nose-to-nose visit with a dolphin. Now attired in swimsuits and lifebelts, we met with the trainer who gave us some guidelines before entering the pool. Dolphins are very sensitive and get confused if they hear two heartbeats as would be the case with a soon-to-be mother. Apparently they can also detect a pacemaker or pins in knee joints. Following instructions, we walked across the sand and into the water until only our heads stuck above the waterline. I smacked the water gently with my palms and this was the signal for Lono, the dolphin, to come to me for his snack of herring and squid. After this, I was able to gently rub his smooth, rubbery tummy and feel the pressure from his blow hole. It was an unforgettable moment.
 With the midday tropical sun beating down upon us, we headed inland to the cooler climes of Waimea set in the foothills of the Kohala Mountains. Our destination was the newly renovated Anna Ranch which is set on a grassy seven-acre property. The Executive Director, Dr. Momi Naughton, is a veritable fount of knowledge and loves to share the life story of Anna, who began her life as a cowgirl.
 On our last evening we attended a luau at the historic King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Held outdoors, it was the perfect setting for the delicious  buffet and exciting Polynesian show until the skies darkened and the heavens opened. With good humor diners draped themselves in white towels supplied by hotel staff. I glanced at the audience and for a moment, I thought I was attending a sheikh summit. Nothing could steal the fun of the evening and by the time the dynamic fire dancer took the stage, the rain had dissipated.
Fair Wind Cruises: http://www.fair-wind.com Hilton Waikoloa Village: http://www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com Dolphin Quest: http://www.dolphinquest.com Anna Ranch Heritage Centre: http://www.annaranch.org Island Breeze Luau: http://www.islandbreezeluau.com The Big Island Visitors Bureau: http://www.bigisland.org Where we stayed: http://www.royalkona.com Images by Hamish M. Jackson
email: caroline@crestlynn.com
Web: http://www.crestlynn.com | 