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A Week On The Water1000 Islands & Finger LakesBy Valerie Summers
My colleagues and I arrived at Syracuse airport from Los Angeles, Chicago, Montreal and Baton Rouge. The drive to our destination, crossing the Canadian border, took us through small villages, farmland and wide open spaces. Soon we spied signs welcoming us to the 1000 Islands region. Our plan was to spend as much time on the waterways as possible via kayak and sightseeing boats. Later, I would add to the experience with a ride on a mail boat on one of the Finger Lakes.
Several of the islands are privately owned. Ash Island has its own railroad which runs from the boathouse to the home on the cliff. Price is Right Island was given away in 1964 by Bill Cullen on the TV game show of the same name. Tom Thumb is the smallest of the islands and Wolfe Island, the largest. Two small adjacent islands belonging to one family are on either side of the international boundary line and are connected by a footbridge.
The design for another architectural marvel, Singer Castle, was inspired by architect Ernest Flagg’s interpretation of Woodstock Manor described in Sir Walter Scott’s fictional Woodstock – The Cavalier. Built on Dark Island for self-made millionaire and president of the Singer Sewing Machine factory Frederick Gilbert Bourne as a hunting lodge, this house of mystery includes a labyrinth of secret passageways, turret rooms and a dungeon. The red-roofed 28 room summer retreat which Borne referred to as a shooting and fishing shack also features an elaborate clock tower which rises five stories above the St. Lawrence River. After a century as a private residence, the current owners have opened the castle to the public.
Our visit to the historic town of Kingston coincided with the 1000 Islands’ Poker Run featuring more than 150 “cigarette” boats from across North America. The brightly colored sleek power boats rocketed across the waterways always drawing a crowd of onlookers. Festivities abounded back on land for the three-day event during which time we ventured on a guided haunted walk which offered some interesting historical information even if we didn’t come across any ghosts. We roamed through the Boat Museum in Clayton, perusing the more than 200 antique boats which has been called the largest and most impressive collection of inland recreational boats in the world. In an adjacent building we viewed a hands on experience as two men handcrafted a canoe. One evening we feasted on a Traditional Shore Dinner at Morgan’s Island. Typically, fishing guide Captain John Evans takes guests out for a day of fishing prior to the dinner, but we just went to eat. The authentic meal began with maple cured bacon which we scooped into BTL sandwiches, followed by fresh fish battered and fried in the bacon grease along with salad featuring what else but 1000 Islands dressing. We topped off the feast with French toast drizzled with maple syrup and a splash of Jack Daniels. That’s the kind of meal that really sticks to your ribs.
For information: 1000 Islands Kayaking Co. 1000 Islands’ Poker Run Antique Boat Museum Arbor House Inn & Suites: Situated in the heart of the turn
of the century lakeside village, the Inn was built in the mid-1800’s as a
residence for the President of Skaneateles. The richly detailed Federal style
home was restored in 2002 to its period elegance and converted to a Bed and
Breakfast establishment. Several rooms feature double Jacuzzi tubs and
fireplaces and all are decorated with loving care. Boldt Castle Captain John P. Evans Mirbeau Inn & Spa: A romantic, full service country inn
featuring fine dining and a world class spa which offers body scrubs and wraps,
facials, massages, hand & foot treatments and special accommodations for
couples. Mid-Lakes Navigation Singer Castle
Skaneateles Area Chamber of Commerce Summer House: Conveniently situated two blocks from the
downtown area, this charmingly decorated inn is pet friendly with the house
mascot, Simon, greeting guests. Some rooms require the guest to share a
bathroom. Homey atmosphere. Breakfast included. T.I. Adventures Photos: Valerie Summers |
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The international watery wonderland
known as the 1000 Islands reaches from upstate New York across the St. Lawrence
River into Ontario, Canada. Although the river is dotted with many more islands
than the name given to the region, the moniker has stuck. My first view of the
river and its tree-filled land masses I would later explore came as I crossed
the 1000 Islands expansion bridge connecting two countries. Peach and golden
hues played on the water as the sun set while the contrasting dark silhouettes
of the islands created a welcoming sight as I anticipated my kayaking tour. 
Our first experience kayaking
amidst the 1000 Islands began at 9 am when we met our guide, Nick Vienneau from
1000 Islands Kayaking Company. Following a brief safety talk, we climbed into
our bright yellow individual kayaks and headed out to explore the waterways. I
was delighted to discover little current, so paddling was easy. Sightseeing
along the way, we viewed tiny cottages, B&Bs, elaborate homes and castles and
reminders of the history of smuggling across the border. The waterways remained
uncrowded, except for a few sailboats, motorboats and sightseeing boats passing
by. Nick pointed out several islands which have been designated as parks and for
golf courses and we discovered that there are 45 Canadian and New York State
Parks in the region. Around noon, we beached our kayaks on Georgina Island and
took a swim while waiting for our guide to set up a picnic lunch. Following the
delicious repast, we headed back for the second leg of our excursion, covering a
total of six miles, enjoying this tranquil area which has remained a favorite
place for summering for more than a century.
The
most well known landmark of the 1000 Islands is the Boldt Castle on Heart
Island. George C. Boldt, who became the most successful hotel magnate in
America, wished to create a magnificent summer home for his beloved wife,
Louise. The castle, modeled after buildings of the 16th century, rises six
stories from the foundation level and includes 120 rooms. The theme of
Valentine hearts runs throughout the massive granite castle and elaborate
Italian gardens. One of the first buildings to be completed on the island was
the whimsical Alster Tower, known as the Play House where the Boldt family often
stayed while the castle was a work in progress.
Across the waterway, on
Wellesley Island, the family’s three yachts and houseboat were accommodated with
tall masts and rigging standing. Its high doors were so heavy that an engine
was needed to move them. The Yacht House was the first of the Boldt buildings
to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Sadly, before the
castle’s completion, Mrs. Boldt died and Mr. Boldt ordered all work to be
ceased. The furnishings, statues and artwork which had been ordered never
reached the castle. From 1904 until 1977, the castle continued to deteriorate
until the 1000 Islands Bridge Authority came to the rescue, assuming ownership
and immediately commencing a rehabilitation program. Each year, when visitors
come to the island, they marvel at the progress as the castle slowly is
transformed into the showplace it was intended to be.
The next day my group met at Grass
Point State Park and boarded bright green tandem kayaks where we situated
ourselves on top of rather than inside the craft for a tour with Jan Brabant of
T.I. Adventures. Crossing the channel to Rock Island to explore the lighthouse
was a bit more strenuous than our previous kayak trip since there was more of a
current but our kayaks proved most seaworthy. Jan filled us in on the history
of the islands and the diversity offered by the area while we took photos of the
lighthouse and watched other kayakers paddle by. We turned down the offer for
The Grinder tour, a 13 mile, eight hour paddle circumnavigating the third
largest island in the area. Perhaps another time. This area also features
excellent diving where more than 400 shipwrecks may be explored.
Heading for home the following
day, we took the Wolfe Island Ferry across to the US but I detoured to
Skaneateles. This village sits on the edge of one of the Finger Lakes of the
same name and is an outlying area of Greater Syracuse. This picturesque town,
not yet discovered by tourists, exudes charm and natural beauty. Walking
through the village gave me the feeling of walking back in time peeking in at
several restaurants and shops which have survived for more than 150 years. I
made a reservation at The Krebs, a Skaneateles institution which has served four
generations in their traditional setting and offers a seven-course pre fixe
dinner. The menu has not changed since it opened although they have added a
more casual dining room upstairs with a more diverse selection.
The most
unique experience I had while there was a three hour ride on a mail boat, one of
the last remaining mail delivery routes via boat in the United States. Operated
by Mid-Lakes Navigation, the 36 passenger Barbara S. Wiles, a mahogany craft
built in 1937, cruises the 32 mile shore of the crystal clear waters of Lake
Skaneateles. We passed Millionaire’s Row where members of the Revlon family and
of the Smith Corona typewriter family and the McDonald house where President and
Senator Clinton visited.
Our first stop was at Sunset Cove where a pert young
lady hopped on the boat’s bow, clutching several pieces of mail and a dog
biscuit. Mail delivery is a happening in this part of the world. The skipper
honks his horn and generally someone comes rushing down the stairs or takes a
lift to the dock, often trailed by their dog, and is handed the mail and a treat
for their dog. Continuing around the pristine lake, the houses became more
eclectic, some tiny, some moderate and several huge. During the cruise we passed
a summer camp where we were greeted by a group of bathing suit attired
counselors welcoming us with their traditional “mail boat dance,” several
swimmers and a few boats. Skaneateles is truly an uncrowded, undiscovered gem.
My final day in
Skaneateles included a visit to Mirbeau Inn & Spa for some out of this world
treatments in a setting filled with the sound of gently flowing water and
decorated with romantic murals. I dined on the Inn’s terrace overlooking a pond
with a Monet-style bridge gracefully crossing over a pond where water lilies
floated, a fitting finale to my week on the water.
Sleepy Hollow Bed & Breakfast:
Built in 1905, is a three-story mansion, complete with a turret and wraparound
porch. Attractively decorated guest rooms with a personal touch run the gamut
from huge to cozy, many include private hot tubs. Delicious breakfasts served
in the formal dining room. Beveled glass, stained glass windows and lead crystal
chandelier add to the charm of this inn. Guests enjoy the comfortable library,
living room and pool table.