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Summer Sports & Shopping To Boot
Freeport, Maine
By Valerie Summers
It all began with a
boot! Ninety years ago, hunting enthusiast Leon Leonwood Bean decided to
design and market a better boot, having had to put up with cold, wet feet
during his hunting trips. He sold them through mail-order with the offer of
a full refund if not satisfied. Of the original 100 sold, 90 were returned
and the cost refunded. He improved the design and perfected the best boot
of its kind. Thus, in the sleepy village of Freeport, Maine, near the “River
of Many Fish,” began one of the country’s most successful retail operations.
When L.L. Bean first opened for business, he accommodated shoppers 24 hours
a day and continues this policy. If a hunter arrived at 2am and rang the
bell, the night watchman would let him in to try on boots and purchase them
right then and there and be on his way. Now a shopping destination with
more than 100 internationally known retail boutiques and factory outlets,
restaurants and galleries, Freeport has grown up around L.L. Bean’s
three-story, 119,000 square foot flagship store. Today, there are no locks
on the doors of the L.L. Bean mega-store which is open for shoppers every
day of the year, 24 hours a day
In addition to boots,
shoes, apparel, and sporting equipment, L.L. Bean’s full service operation
features Walk-On Adventures and Outdoor Discovery Schools. On the spur of
the moment, providing the class is not already filled up, summertime
visitors may sign on for introductory lessons in Kayak touring (2 ½ hours
for $12), Fly Casting (1 ½ hours for $10) or Clay Shooting (1 ½ hours for
$12). For more thorough instruction, the Outdoor Discovery Schools list of
activities includes choices of full day and multi-day excursions.
I signed on for an
introduction to kayaking, followed the next day by a full day of paddling
down the Harraseeket River and around the islands of Casco Bay. Along with
eight other novices, I met up with jovial instructor Jill Ross, presenting
safety information and the basics on the sport of sea kayaking with humor.
We slipped into our PFDs (the au corrant name for life jackets), trying out
the paddling motions on land before heading down to the dock. The
temperature hovered in the 80s. The sky was bright blue and the water was a
little colder than I would have enjoyed had I fallen into it. In no time at
all, my group was right in the swing, weaving in and out of the moored
boats.
The following day I
returned with a friend to meet up with two enthusiastic young instructors,
Kevin and Charlie. After the first hour of more detailed instruction and
demonstrations, over a bathing suit and my long sleeved shirt, I donned a
wetsuit, PFD (Personal Flotation Devices), and a skirt contraption which
would literally be my connection to my sea kayak. I would later appreciate
having my fingerless boating gloves, visor and sunglasses for added
protection. We hauled our respective kayaks down to the water, were given
another demonstration on the best way to get in from the shore and proceeded
to slip into them, sealing ourselves in with the spray skirt. We started
down river, avoiding moving boats and their wakes, skirting around tiny
Pound of Tea, Goslings and Little Mosher islands of Casco Bay. After a
couple of hours, we beached our kayaks on a deserted island and carried our
stored picnic lunches over to a rocky outcropping with a spectacular view of
the passing boats and lush, wooded islands of Maine. We munched on
succulent fresh lobster rolls and freshly baked chewy chocolate chip
cookies. After a much earned rest, we headed back towards Freeport. The sun
was warmer, my stomach was fuller, the tide was stronger and I was a far
better kayaker than I had been six hours earlier.
The following morning I was introduced to the sport of clay shooting by one
of the country’s foremost marksmen, Keith MacDonald, who had me feeling like
Annie Oakley in no time. Several years ago I had, for the first time, given
clay shooting a try. After two hours with instruction I had connected
once. With Keith’s help, advising me of safety precautions, stance,
position and timing and with a 28 gauge shotgun, within minutes, I was
hitting the clay discs coming and going. He applauded when I hit and
encouraged me when I missed with “Excellent form – you were so close to the
target.” In an hour and a half he had won over a new clay shooting
enthusiast.
Later, a walk in the lush woods of white pine and hemlock along Maine’s
rugged coastline took me through the 200 acre Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park
where I hiked along carefully designated paths and down to the water for a
rock skipping respite before heading back to town for some “Shop-Aerobics”
along Main Street.
During my stay in Freeport,
I indulged in lobster, crab cakes and rich New England clam chowder as often
as possible in all kinds of settings. One evening I took a sunset dinner
cruise aboard the Atlantic Seal, passing the home of Admiral Robert Peary,
now a museum, on Eagle Island. We watched playful seals and magnificent
ospreys on Googins Island while chowing down. The Broad Arrow Tavern was
the perfect selection for casual dining where I feasted on steamed Maine
clams. It was hard to choose from the eclectic six page menu at the Muddy
Rudder, nestled on the Cousins River, but I did not regret my selection of
the luscious lobster roll. The Harraseeket Lodge provided the backdrop for
several meals including an elaborate Sunday Brunch including not only my big
three favorites mentioned above, but caviar, salmon, pork, roast beef,
salads, waffles and table full of desserts. Another evening, in the hotel’s
signature Maine Dining Room, my dinner included out of shell succulent
poached Maine lobster served over spring pea and truffle risotto. The meal
concluded with Chocolate Overdose, a flaming, decadent dessert of warm
chocolate cake, Grand Marnier, berries and orange chocolate chunk ice
cream. On the final night of my visit, I got down and dirty at a lobster
bake in the hotel’s gardens, attacking my huge lobster with crackers while
melted butter dripped down my chin, a fitting finale to a fun filled visit
to Freeport, Maine.
For information:
Atlantic Seal Cruises
Main Street, Box 146
South Freeport, Maine
04078
207/865-6112
Comfort Suites features
affordable, oversized rooms with separate sitting area, remote control
cable TV, air conditioning, iron and board, coffee maker, refrigerator,
microwave, free newspaper each morning. A complimentary deluxe continental
breakfast is offered daily and guests may enjoy the indoor swimming pool and
fitness center.
500 U. S. Route One
Freeport, Maine 04032
877/865-9300
http://www.freeportcomfortsuites.com
Freeport Merchants
Association
P. O. Box 452
Freeport, Maine 04032
800/865-1994
Harraseeket Inn, a four
diamond luxury country inn situated in the midst of Freeport Village, this
elegant boutique hotel features individually decorated guest rooms, some
with fireplaces and canopied beds, sumptuous breakfasts, afternoon tea and
two fine restaurants.
162 Main St.
Freeport, Maine 04032
800/342-6423
http://www.harraseeketinn.com
Muddy Rudder Restaurant
31 US Route 1
Freeport, Maine 04032
800/99-VALUE
http://wwwfreeportinn.com
L. L. Bean Outdoor
Discovery Schools
Casco Street
Freeport, Maine 04033
888/552-3261
http://www.llbean.com
US Airways flies into
Portland, just a 30 minute drive to Freeport
800/428-4322
http://www.usairways.com
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