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The Return of the Cheese CourseBy Carole Kotkin
Part of this culinary trend includes a growing appreciation for cheeses of every flavor, texture and shape. Sometimes just one cheese is offered as dessert. Before desserts at Azul in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Miami, a huge 110 pound drum of mild-nutty French Cantal from Laguiole, Auvergne, is wheeled to the table on a trolley and served to patrons. "It lets diners finish up the last of their wine, it also allows them to enjoy a dessert wine, too," says restaurant manager Alain Ricci. The appearance of the cheese course in so many restaurants across the country is based on a growing feeling among chefs and restaurateurs that cheese is an integral part of the fine-dining experience. "We are renowned for our cheeses. People come here looking for them, and sometimes that’s all they’ll order: cheese, wine and bread," boasts Max McCalman, Mitre de Fromage at New York’s Picholine, where about three-quarters of the customers order a cheese course as part of their meal. Terrance Brennan, executive chef/owner of Picholine,searches the world over for the 75 or so cheeses that fill his cheese cellar, a glass-doored, closet-like structure in a private dining room. Brennan decided to expand the ambitious cheese program and open Artisanal, a restaurant designed to focus on and celebrate the world of cheese. According to Picholine’s chef de cuisine, Peter Daledda, a 5-week research trip to Europe with cheese affineurs (cheese finishers) and exporters has yielded one of the most extensive selection of cheeses to be found anywhere in the world. Within view of diners is a state-of-the-art glass enclosed walk-in cave with 5 computerized climate zones to maintain the idea temperature and humidity for more than 250 varieties of cheese. McCalman will tell all in his book, The Cheese Plate, to be published early next year.
Paula Lambert, president of the Mozzarella Company developed a deep appreciation of Italian fresh cheeses when she studied Italian art history in Perugia, Italy. Upon her return she discovered that none of her adored cheeses were available in Dallas, so she went back to Italy and learned how to make mozzarella and ricotta. She came home with enough skills to open the Mozzarella Company in 1982. "The timing way right. American regional cooking took off in 1984, and that’s when our cheeses took off, too," she says. "Our cheeses are based on classics, but like a lot of cheese being made in America today, they are unique to the United States. We are known for our Southwestern adaptations of Italian cheeses. We smoke mozzarella over pecan shells, because pecans are the state tree of Texas, and we blend chiles like ancho, serrano and chipolte into the cheese. We are not copying; we are creating," she continues. Lambert wraps disks of goat cheese in Mexican hoja santa leaves instead of the usual French chestnut leaves, and calls her creation "Hoja Santa Goat Cheese Bundle". Her newest and most unique cheese, Deep Ellum Blue, is a semi-soft cows milk cheese with a blue exterior. It’s made by bathing the cheese in mold, rather than penetrating the interior with mold. You'll find Mozzarella Company’s cheese in gourmet stores and kitchens of the top restaurants in the country. In the last decade or so the growing number of serious American cheese makers and the increasing availability of exciting European cheeses, have transformed the dining table. "Its no coincidence that this trend occurs as we are seeing a renaissance of fine cheesemaking in this country," says Laura Werlin. At the annual meeting of the American Cheese Society in California last year, 80 cheesemakers entered almost 400 cheeses for judging. Today small U.S. producers are turning out farmstead cheeses that compete with the best of Europe's. Paula Lambert says, "When I started my business almost 20 years ago there were only a few cheesemakers on each coast, now there are cheesemakers in every state in the country."
"There is an inherent marriage of cheese and wine," says Lynn Andrews, cheese monger at Gary Dankos restaurant in San Francisco. Chef Gary Danko developed a great understanding of how wine and cheese come together during the time he was executive chef at Beringer Vineyards and later as executive chef of Chateau Souverain’s restaurant in Sonoma County. "Living in one of the top cheese-producing states in the country, we take the cheese course seriously. California cheesemakers are producing some amazing cheeses, whose flavors make for interesting pairing with wine," she continues. Lynn works closely with sommelier Christie Dufault and Chef Danko to choose their world-wide selection of cheeses. The key to perfect cheese is in the aging process, so they "finish" many of their cheeses at the restaurant in a special cheese ripening cooler so that the flavors are at their peak. When customers ask for advice Lynn steers them toward a carefully balanced selection and a matching wine. Wine is offered by the half glass so that customers can experiment with different combinations. Customers reaction is delight and surprise. Cheese Categories:Getting to know the delights of cheese can be an intimidating prospect, if only because of the astounding number of varieties available. Humankind has been engaged in creating different cheeses ever since the process was discovered by accident at least 10,000 years. France alone produces over 500 different varieties of cheese and there are at least a thousand individually named varieties of cheeses worldwide. The following are categories of cheese and suggested wine pairings. Most people prefer serving the softer, more delicately flavored cheeses with lighter, fruitier wines. As the cheeses become more flavorful and assertive, select from heartier, more intensely-flavored wines. Some cheese experts point out that you can sometimes set up delicious pairings by deliberately contrasting flavors. Some soft creamy cheeses go very well with complex, full-bodied wines. In general, cheese and wine produced near the same region marry well. For example, serve Sancerre wines with Crottin de Chavignol. But what’s most important is that neither overwhelms the other. Thus robust blue cheeses should be matched with equally strong red wines, while more delicate, creamier cheeses need an intense white or fruity red wine. Spanish sherries, both dry and sweet are excellent partners for many cheeses; especially those from Spain. The bottom line here is that your own personal preference should prevail. Fresh, rindless cheese: unripened, moist and quite soft, with a high water content. Those made from cows milk tend to be mild in flavor; goat and sheep milk have stronger flavors. Examples: French Chevre (left accent on first e) (mild to tangy) and Montrachet (slightly tangy), Greek Feta (salty and milky), Mozzarella (mild), Italian Robiola (mild and creamy) and Ricotta (mild). Wine Pairing: Brut champagne/ sparkling; Pinot Blanc; Pinot Gris; crisp, high-acid Sauvignon Blanc, such as Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre; Beaujolais; Chenin Blanc; or Vouvray. Soft-ripened :bloomy rind with soft edible skin. When fully ripe and at room temperature, center is runny. Examples: French Brie (mild and buttery to pungent) and Camembert (slightly acidic and earthy); triple-cremes such as French Gratte-Paille (artisinal cheese), Brillat-Savarin, Explorateur , and Saint-Andre (right accent over the e) (all rich and buttery). Wine Pairing: Brut Champagne/sparkling; lighter, dry styles of Riesling and Chenin Blanc; Beaujolias, Cabernet Sauvignon; fruitier styles of Pinot Noir and Merlot. Semi-Soft washed-rind cheeses (the rinds have been rubbed or washed during the ripening process) . Examples: French Pont-l’ Eveque (upside down v over the second e), Epoisses, and Livarot (very strong artisinal cheese); Italian Taleggio (mild and buttery); and Spanish Mahon (right accent over the o). Wine Pairing: sturdy red wines such as Syrah, Barolo, Barbaresco, weightier Pinot Noir or Burgundy. Semi-Soft : aged and protected by an inedible wax rind. Can be sliced, but difficult to grate. Examples: Italian Bel Paese (mild and sweet); Dutch Gouda and Edam (salty and tangy depending on age), American Brick (mild to strong depending on age), Italian Fontina (nutty and smoky) and Bel Paese; French Port-Salut (mellow to sharp) and Reblochon (mild and creamy). Wine Pairing: Chardonnay and oak-matured Sauvignon Blanc (Fume Blanc); Alsace Riesling,; Gewurztraminer; Viognier; Roussanne and Marsanne; Pinot Noir. Hard: drier and firmer than semi-soft and aged for varying lengths of time. Can be sliced and grated. Examples: French Cantal (nutty and mild to sharp); English or American Cheddar (mild to sharp depending on age); Swiss or Emmenthaler (sweet and nutty); Spanish Manchego (mellow, but full flavored); American Monterey Jack (mild to mellow) and Italian Provolone (mild to sharp). Wine Pairing: Fino and Amontillado Sherries, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo. Blue-Veined: Injected with a mold to produce veining prior to ripening. Consistencies vary from creamy to dry and crumbly. Examples: French Bleu du Bresse (piquant, but milder than most blues), and Roquefort (sharp and pungent), Spanish Cabrales, Danish Blue (sharp and salty), Italian Gorgonzola (tangy and piquant), American Maytag Blue (strong and salty), and English Stilton (piquant, but milder than most blues). Wine Pairing: Extra Dry or Demisec Champagne/sparkling, late-harvest Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon and Tokay, old vines Grenache and Zinfandel, reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz/Syra, Vintage Port, Sauterne or dessert wine. Grating Cheeses: hard, with crumbly texture and ripened for various lengths of time. Hard to slice; best grated. Examples: Italian Asiago (usually sharp), Parmigiano-Reggiano (sharp, nutty and often salty) and Pecorino Romano (usually sharp); and Swiss Sapsago (grassy and herbal). Wine Pairing: Fino Sherry, Nebbiolo, reserve Sangiovese, Syrah, Zinfandel. Serving Tips:Sarah Petrie owner of The Cheese Course in Westin, Florida, says, "offering a variety of cheeses at home can be a lovely way to entertain with ease. Serving cheese doesnt require any fancy equipment or accessories. The point is to enjoy your selections with good company and good wine. Despite the European tradition of serving a cheese course at the end of a meal, a hostess on this side of the ocean should feel free to stray from Old World customs and serve cheese as an appetizer or even as a main course." Petrie suggests serving on a flat wicker tray, marble or wood cutting boards, cheese platters or individual dessert plates. Don't serve too many cheeses. Even one carefully chosen cheese paired with an excellent wine can constitute a pleasing cheese course. Put three or four cheeses of differing flavors, shapes and textures on a large cheese platter, set out an equal number of knives and let guests slice and savor. I suggest a soft Brie, such as the luxurious Brie de Meaux from France; an American Cheddar, preferably an unpasteurized white cheddar from Vermont, the dry Montgomery's Cheddar, a blue cheese, either a sweet, the best of bleu; Blue de Bresse, a milder buttery-tasting Danish blue or a salty, crumbly and light domestic Maytag and something just for fun like a spicy, aged Gouda. Or hone in on a particular country like Spain and serve Manchego, Cabrales, La Serena, and Mahon (right accent over the o). If you crave blue cheese, go all out with a platter of Maytag, Irish Cashel and Stilton. Always serve cheese at room temperature. Depending on the warmth of the room, it shouldn't take more than an hour. Leave cheese wrapped while its warming up. Arrange wedges and logs far from one another so flavors remain distinct. Figure on a two-ounce serving portion of each cheese per person if the cheese platter is an appetizer or dessert; double that if cheese is the whole meal. Tell your guests the name, origin and type of each cheese, and in which order it’s best to sample them. As in wine-tasting, progress from milder cheeses to stronger ones. Pair foods that wont overshadow the delicious flavor and texture of the cheese. Some possibilities include: Breads: Baguettes, Brioche, Walnut Bread Fruits: Fuji or Gala Apples, Anjou or Bosc Pears, Grapes, Melon, Peaches, Strawberries Dried Fruits: Cherries, Currants, Dates, Figs, Raisins, Apricots, Cranberries Nuts: Walnuts, Pistachios, Almonds, Hazelnuts Other: Fruit Chutneys, Olives, Honey The edibility of a cheeses rind is a matter of taste and common sense. The rind of stilton is obviously inedible, while eating the rinds of Reblochon, Brie or Camembert is a matter of personal preference. Its acceptable to trim them away. Buying and Storing Tips:Taste before you buy whenever possible. Never buy pre-sliced cheese. Buy cheese that has a natural rather than a plastic rind. Fresh-cut cheese will taste better than a plastic-wrapped wedge. Look for a cheese that seems fresh, with no mold or seeping liquid. Don’t buy cheese in a puffed-up package that looks as if its read to burst. And never buy cheese that smells of ammonia. To store cheese, wrap it in wax paper or parchment paper, then overwrap with plastic wrap. Store in your refrigerators produce bin, which has high humidity. The softer the cheese, the shorter the shelf life. Very soft cheese such as chevre should be used within a few days. Hard cheeses will keep for up to a month. No cheese benefits from freezing, so buy cheese in small quantities and use it while its fresh. Cheese SourcesThe following web sites provide extensive lists of cheese companies and artisan cheesemakers, including phone numbers and web sites: California Milk Advisory Board,
www.calif-dairy.com Books:New American Cheese by Laura Werlin To Order:Mozzarella Company, 1-800-798-2954 or www.mozzco.com Real California Cheese Country Brochure for mail order
sources: California Milk Murrays Cheese Shop, 1-888 MyCheez Images by Carole Kotkin |
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It’s happening in the hottest restaurants in New York,
Washington, Miami, and San Francisco. Imagine indulging in a softly ripened
Camembert instead of creme brulee; a blue-veined Stilton instead of molten
chocolate cake; or a creamy goat cheese instead of an apple tart. The age-old European tradition, of serving several cheeses to form a
separate course at the end of the meal, has made it onto the menus of top
U.S. restaurants bringing an added dimension to dining and enjoying food.
Food Arts magazine deemed cheese trays one of the years hot culinary trends,
and the Zagat Restaurant Surveys now include a listing of the best cheese
trays in select cities. According to Travel &Leisure magazines top-100
travel trends for 2001, a cheese-course revolution will sweep the country
this year "much as wine did a decade ago." We’ve been hearing about "the
return of the cheese course" for a few years now, but lately it really seems
to be catching on with diners and chefs. Cheese courses are nothing new on
the American menu; upscale restaurateurs have often tried to keep the cheese
platter on the menu, but there were few takers. Cheese was too rich, too
high in fat content, not part of the American meal.
It is an understatement to say the times have changed
since the 80s when I owned a retail gourmet store. American tastes were
becoming more worldly and European cheeses were beginning to find a market
here, so we stocked our shelves with runny Camemberts, stinky
Livarots, triple-creme Explorateur, blue-veined Stilton and nutty
Gruyere. We introduced our customers to the lovely flavors, textures and
aromas of well-rounded, properly ripened cheeses, but few bought them . We
did sell a lot of Havarti. "People are no longer saying no to butter and
cheese. They’re more interested in taste and flavor," says Laura Werlin,
author of The New American Cheese, a book dedicated to profiling domestic
artisan cheese makers. Actually, cheese contains fewer calories and
less fat than that slice of pie plus its a good source of protein and
calcium. Consumers realize that cheese can be a healthy, nutritious part of
a balanced diet. Werlin continues, "Eating a little bit of a great cheese at
the end of the meal is part of the growing quality-rather-than-quantity
pattern. A little bit goes a long way and can be very satisfying." 
Last
year Americans consumed twice as much cheese as they did 20 years earlier
and I don’t mean Velveeta. The cheeses were talking about are not the
familiar shrink-wrapped blocks of cheese we grew up with, but strange cheese
pyramids dusted with ash, wheels of runny cheese covered with soft, white
rinds, and slabs of blue cheese that look spoiled before you’ve even bought
them; cheeses made from raw or carefully pasteurized milk, then gently
cured and aged, many of which are produced from techniques and recipes that
are centuries old. We’re talking about small-production, handmade, artisan
cheeses. Some, known as farmstead cheeses, are produced using the milk of
the cows right on the farm where the cheese is made. 
American consumers are much more knowledgeable about
cheese than they were even a few years ago and last year retail cheese sales
were nearly $10 billion. With more disposable income and increased travel
people have become more sophisticated and knowledgeable about cheese. "Once
you start eating hand-produced cheese that has been handled in a way its
supposed to be handled, it’s a whole new world. It doesn’t taste like
anything you get out of a commercial package," said Peggy Smith, co-owner of
Artisan Cheese, San Francisco, and The Cheese Shop at Tomales Bay, Point
Reyes, California. Peggy manages the retail units while her partner, Sue
Conley, manages production of European-style fresh organic cheeses at
Cowgirl Creamery, adjacent to the Tomales Bay cheese shop. "We not only
market our own cheese, but other artisan, farmstead cheeses. What we found
is that people come in asking for something they recognize, like brie. While
we have their attention, we say, try this and they’re always happy to
sample." "The interest in cheese parallels what has happened in the wine and
olive oil industries. Its a natural progression," says Smith. Rob Kaufelt of
Murrays Cheese Shop on Bleecker Streetin New York agrees, "Cheese is part of
a broader interest in fine foods; whether its heirloom vegetables or artisan
cheese. People are interested in "real" food. He attributes this newfound
interest to three elements: The retailers who foraged for the best possible
cheeses both abroad and in the United States, media coverage, and the
resurgence of the cheese course in restaurants across America. "One of our
most popular cheese is the fresh and smoked Mozzarella made for us by a
little old Italian man in his New York basement," says Kaufelt. Besides the
Mozzarella; Parmigiano-Reggiano and Brie are his best sellers. He
proudly states that sales this year have been the best since Murrays opened
61 years ago. Among the 350 cheese varieties sold at Murrays are those from
the Mozzarella Company in Dallas.
The author, Clifton Fadiman once called cheese "milks
leap toward immortality." And, its the type of milk used that influences
cheese’s flavor. Goats or sheep's milk cheese generally is sharp and light,
while cheese made from cows milk is usually buttery and smooth. The flavor
of a good cheese, like a fine wine, will vary depending on the maker, the
year, the region, the season and the aging period. To make cheese, milk is
submitted to what is essentially a process of controlled spoilage, thus
converting a liquid into a solid with very different properties. Like
other foods that have been altered by bacterial action (sourdoughs, soy
sauce, yogurt, wine), cheese has deep multi-layered flavors. Paula Lambert
says, "Cheese has an affinity for all things fermented. Wine, beer, bread
and cheese have been enjoyed together for centuries."