International Falls, Minnesota, is cool place, especially in winter...
Voyageurs National Park is Year-Round Water (and Ice) Wonderland
By Naomi K. Shapiro
 International Falls, Minnesota, population 8,000, got its
start in the late 1800s as a timber center, followed by construction of a power
dam and huge paper- and sawmills on each side of the border it shares along
212,000-acre Rainy Lake with Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada. I-Falls' modern
lure is year-round fishing and tourism, turning its reputation as "Icebox of the
Nation" to advantage for winter recreation and cold-weather equipment testing.
Recipe for winter in I-Falls
Take one international border. Separate with a waterfall.
Add a ribbon of Rainy River, a large chunk of Rainy Lake, and blocks of a
national park studded with islands. Fold in woods, lakes, trails, and beautiful
scenery. Add a dash of very friendly people and spread over the Canadian
Shield. Freeze for weeks. This recipe serves thousands per winter and leaves
very warm feelings...
Why go to I-Falls? And Voyageurs National Park.
 Believe it or not, lots of folks seek out prime
opportunities for snowmobiling, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing,
wildlife watching, star-gazing, and northern lights-watching. The I-Falls area
boasts miles of groomed scenic trails and immense forestlands, including the
218,000-acres of islands and waters of Minnesota's Voyageur's National Park.
The Park's Rainy Lake Visitor Center, 10 miles east of I-Falls on Highway 11,
has information, workshops, and interpretation, as well outstanding logging,
Voyageur, and Native American Exhibits (1-218-286-5258).
Eating out:
Join the REAL wool-shirt and Sorel crowd at the Border Bar
for monster-sized, chin dripping, double-bacon cheeseburgers and fries plus
vinegar-and-sugar cole slaw; or chow down some of the best scratch pizza this
side of cholesterol. Plenty of smoke on the bar side, country-western on the
box, NASCAR blaring on the TV, and locals downing draft beer and boilermakers.
(1-218-283-9919).
There's real chocolate mousse, plus a wide range of
excellent sandwiches, salads, wraps, and dinner-fare at the popular, new
Chocolate Moose Restaurant Company on the south end of town. (1-218-283-8888).
Grandma's Pantry in Ranier (a couple of miles east of I-Falls) serves a huge,
delicious wild-rice pancake. (1-218-286-5584).
Sleeping in:
Area accommodations include numerous Rainy Lake resorts,
many motels, a Holiday Inn, and several B & B's. The Thunderbird Lodge, 10
miles east of town near the Rainy Lake Visitor Center of Voyageurs National
Park, has great lodgings AND dining room, where walleye with secret tartar sauce
and toll house pie are must-haves! (1-800-351-5133).
I-Falls Pre-eminent winter event:
 I-Falls' new "Blast on the Border" (formerly "Ice Box
Days"), will now be held each year the third weekend in February (call ahead for
information), with turkey bowling; smoosh races (four people, two skis); chili
cook-off (what, no quiche and white wine?); children's snow sculptures, beach
party (Waikiki with ice augers?), snowshoe race between the I-Falls and Fort
Frances city councils; and the venerable 10k and 5 K Freeze your Gizzard
Blizzard Run (one guy ran last year's race with no shirt on – said this was the
only way he could make news!). New this year was a human sled dog race (Lassie,
don't come home!); and Teenage Talent Show.
Other things to do in I-Falls:
The Koochiching County Historical Museum and Bronko
Nagurski (of NFL fame) Museum share a modern building in the northeast corner of
Smokey Bear Park. (1-218-283-4316). Shopping, from cool jam to warm jammies,
and just about anything else you need can be found in I-Falls.
Our little secret
 We like to bop over the border and head for Safeway
(Grocery) in Fort Frances, Ontario, for Canadian condiments and jams. We love
it when the border guards ask, "What's the purpose of your trip," and we reply,
"to buy some chili sauce." Also find nice Canadian fleeces, candy, and jam at
the duty free shop.
Best Winter Advice
Bring the Sorel (boots), Steger Mukluks, and choppers
(mittens), as well as a long, heavy duty extension cord for your engine-block
heater.
Six months out
 When things warm up again, it's time to swim, sun, waterski,
boat, canoe, kayak, fish, hike, rent a houseboat, pick some berries, and
continue to enjoy Minnesota's north woods.
Getting there:
I-Falls is 289 miles northeast of the Twin Cities
(Minneapolis and St. Paul, Minnesota). Take Interstate 35 North to Duluth, and
pick up Highway 53 North.
I-Falls Chamber of Commerce & Convention and Visitors
Bureau: 1-800-325-5766.
Naomi K. Shapiro is a Madison, Wisconsin-based travel and
outdoor writer specializing in fishing, nature, and soft adventure. E-mail:
cre8vads@cheqnet.net
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