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Santa Fe Hotel Mirrors Town’s Varied Cultures

By Joyce Dalton

If Santa Fe ever popped up on a free-association test, most of us probably would respond "adobe." To "adobe," we’d likely answer "Spanish." Surely, this New Mexican town embodies both, but that’s far from its whole cultural story. One hotel, The Inn of the Anasazi, provides an introduction to Santa Fe’s unique cultural riches, along with the best of accommodations.

Although the property only dates to 1991, its furnishings and décor are as historic as its location just around the corner from the Plaza and the Palace of the Governors, the oldest public building in the U.S. The architects carefully studied the ruins and artifacts of the Inn’s namesake, the Native Americans known as the Anasazi, and incorporated their architectural and artistic designs into the building. Timed during an autumn equinox when daylight and darkness are aligned, a blessing ceremony was held with a medicine man, a Franciscan priest and local artists taking part. A time capsule containing artworks, symbolic objects and documents reflecting Santa Fe’s varied cultures was placed in the foundation.

Culture abounds inside the Inn, as well. Lovers of art and artifacts should consider a tour of the public spaces a part of their Santa Fe sight-seeing itinerary. According to general manager Jeff Mahan, the architects sought to weave the town’s culture into every aspect of the Inn through the use of contemporary and historical art.

No sooner have you passed through the massive hand-carved doors than the art tour begins. Behind the reception desk, a late 19th century Navajo weaving covers the sandstone wall. The kiva fireplace grill’s serpentine metal reflects the glow of a juniper and cedar fire on cool evenings, while several modernistic pieces by Doug Coffin, a Plains Indian, add further interest. Throw pillows woven in traditional earth tones accent cushiony leather chairs, while flowers, artifacts and an intricate weaving brighten the rough wood coffee table.

To the left of the lobby, wooden doors, hand-carved in Anasazi designs, lead to the award-winning restaurant. With wooden floors, sandstone walls, wrought iron sconces, rough-hewn tables, and banquettes covered in textiles hand-woven in the village of Chimayo, the ambience is pure Southwest. Beaded objects crafted by Plains Indians are displayed, while large works of leather painted in Anasazi patterns hang from the walls.

The menu is as special as the surroundings and true to regional cuisine. Appetizers include Navajo flat bread with roasted peppers, aged balsamic and sage olive oil; roast venison quesadilla with jicama-tortilla salad, and grilled corn tortilla and lime soup with white cheddar and snake cracker. Among the tempting main courses: grilled salmon, herbed white butter, tomato cous cous and cucumber basil salad; tamarind-chile glazed tuna mignon with scallion-ginger polenta, green curry sauce and tropical mojo; and cinnamon-chile rubbed beef medallions with white cheddar mashed potatoes and mango salsa.

Back in the hallway, the tour continues past a mysterious metal raven gazing into a candle’s flame and 100-year-old Indian rattles resting above a doorway.

As Mahan put it, the architects "saw every door as an opportunity to create something." Certainly, that’s true of those leading to the Library and the Living Room, which are carved and colorfully painted in traditional motifs. The Living Room, a cozy place to relax or to attend periodic fireside chats led by regional artists or historians, is a mini-museum housing 1,000-year-old Anasazi pots, beadwork, fetishes, Santos (icons of Spanish saints), woven baskets dating back several centuries, and a framed Hopi shawl. In the Library, you’ll find books on southwestern history, art, and the myths, legends and lore of Santa Fe’s indigenous culture. Tables and chairs are clustered for conversation or card games. The table tops have been hand-painted to resemble buffalo skins or drums. Throughout the public rooms, area rugs, woven in traditional geometric patterns, serve an artistic, as well as functional, purpose.

On the Inn’s lower level, the wine cellar’s walls hold a valuable collection of another sort. In fact, the carefully selected wine list has insured that the property has been accorded the Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the past five years. Just outside the cellar, the wall décor consists of an enviable array of plaques which The Inn of the Anasazi has won for its accommodations and restaurant. Among them: Mobil Four Star, AAA Four Diamond, Conde Nast Traveler’s Gold List and Travel & Leisure’s Top 100 Hotels in U.S. and Canada. The majority of awards, it should be noted, have been received year after year. The Inn also is a member of both Preferred Hotels & Resorts Worldwide and Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Right about now, you might be wondering if this abundance of Native American and Spanish touches extends to the 59 guest rooms. The answer is a resounding yes. Although differences exist in the four room categories, all exude "Southwestern chic," from the traditional vigas (beams) and latillas (cross poles, usually of aspen) of the ceilings to the woven Native American scatter rugs. I grew quite fond of my bit of Santa Fe which was in the second, or superior, category and each day, discovered some special feature overlooked the day before.

Without doubt, the room’s focal point was the corner kiva fireplace. A wooden cross contrasted with the white of its beehive-shaped dome. Crosses are a natural part of the region’s ethnic and cultural elements and should be viewed as such. Perfect for curling up with one’s Santa Fe guide or a book of Native American myths, a cushioned chair, accented with a colorful throw pillow and a casually draped crocheted shawl, was positioned near the fireplace. The huge four-poster bed of light wood came with its own little two-step stool, the better for shorties like me to climb in. A Spanish-style armoire housed the TV, VCR, mini bar, a safe, and a coffeemaker complete with custom-blended beans, while nicely framed pictures of Native American artifacts, an iron candleholder, a glass-enclosed wall sconce, and area rugs in geometric patterns completed the décor. Useful extras, as an iron and ironing board and a humidifier (very welcome in the dry New Mexican climate), were hidden in a closet. The bath held a pleasing array of fine soaps, potpourri and locally created organic toiletries containing native cedar extract. As an appreciated special touch, a Native American myth was placed by the bed each evening.

Even the corridors are anything but hotel generic. On the top two floors, a gentle flow of water drifts over the sandstone wall and a third floor ceiling skylight bears the handprints of the original management team and long-term employees. Although guests’ handprints aren’t on the ceiling, the Inn takes pride in its list of distinguished clientele, more than 100 strong, including leaders in the realms of the arts, industry, sports and politics. Your fellow guests have included Andre Agassi, Calvin Klein, Robert Redford, Maria Shriver, Donald Trump, and Oprah Winfrey. Famous name or not, all guests enjoy red carpet treatment at The Inn of the Anasazi --- truly the mark of a fine hotel.

Exploring Santa Fe’s Other Sites

In the 16th century, the Spanish arrived, searching for gold. In 1607, they established Santa Fe (meaning "City of Holy Faith") and set about leaving their mark on it. Life centered around the central Plaza, much as the tourist’s life does today. This is the logical point for setting off on a walking tour, either on your own or with a knowledgeable guide such as Maria Felt of the local company, Historical Walks of Santa Fe. Maria not only showed my group an impressive number of sites in a relatively small amount of time, but enriched her factual narrative with interesting stories and southwestern trivia. Among the high points:

The Palace of the Governors dates to 1610 and originally, housed the Spanish government in New Mexico. Today, this long, low building is a museum of New Mexican history and culture. Along its portal (covered porch/walkway), Native American merchants spread their wares.

Typical of Santa Fe’s Pueblo/Spanish architecture, the Museum of Fine Arts displays a large collection of New Mexico art, as well as various changing exhibits.

Georgia O’Keeffe lived more than 35 years in New Mexico and the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum is devoted to her work and life. Many of her paintings are exhibited along with photos of the artist by Todd Webb. As a sign puts it, "one of America’s greatest photographers whose subject is one of America’s greatest modernists."

At Plaza Sena, often called the prettiest courtyard in Santa Fe, you’ll find an early 19th century mansion built in territorial style architecture, now home to several boutiques and a restaurant (La Cantina) whose waiters and waitresses entertain with the best of show tunes during dinner. Among the shops here, check out one filled with chocolate figures (mostly religious) and Milagros (miracle-working images) decorated in edible 3 kt. gold and silver leaf.

The Romanesque Cathedral’s belfry serves as guide to how tall any Santa Fe structure may be. Its magnificent sculptured bronze doors contain many panels, each depicting a historical event, beginning with the arrival of friars seeking the seven cities of gold.

Constructed in the early 17th century in Gothic Revival style, the Loretto Chapel’s spiral staircase is thought by some to be miraculous, both due to the lack of visible supports and to the story surrounding it. Needing a staircase but without the necessary funds, the nuns made prayers to St. Joseph, patron of carpenters. One day, an unknown carpenter appeared. Using only a few simple tools, he built the curving stairs, then disappeared without payment.

San Miguel Mission Church, generally considered the oldest continuously used church in the U.S., contains a collection of historic Spanish religious art.

A short taxi ride from the historic center leads to Camino Lejo and a plaza lined by three museums, all worthwhile. The Museum of International Folk Art features handicrafts from 70 countries, including thousands of miniatures. Across the square, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture offers such handicrafts as jewelry, ceramics, textiles and basketry with good explanatory notes and verses from Indian poetry here and there on the walls. Down a little footpath, the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art opened in July 2002 in a historical residence. At any given time, about one-fourth of a 3,000-piece collection is displayed on a rotating basis.

If you’re in town during the summer, consider a night at the opera. Set on a hill overlooking the city and partially open to the sky and stars, the Santa Fe Opera will stage Offenbach’s "La Belle Helene," Mozart’s "Cosi Fan Tutte," Strauss’ "Intermezzo," Janacek’s "Katya Kabanova," and the world premiere of Sheng’s "Madame Mao" during the 2003 season.

Half or Full-Day Excursions Out of Town

The term Anasazi means "Ancient Ones" and refers to a number of different groups of people whose culture reached its heights many hundreds of years ago. Fifty miles from Santa Fe, Bandelier National Monument comprises some 3,000 Anasazi archaeological sites dating from 10,000 B.C. to 1600 A.D. Here, the people constructed cliff dwellings in the volcanic tufa.

Often called the "Lourdes of the Southwest," the Santuario de Chimayo is an extremely picturesque adobe church in a village equally noted for the quality of its weavings. Believers claim that prayers made in this little church have led to a large number of miraculous cures and indeed, visitors note crutches and wheelchairs left by those who no longer need them.

Contact Information

Inn of the Anasazi. 505/988-3030 or 800/688-8100. e-mail: reservations@ www.innoftheanasazi.com. Per room rates range from $199 to $469 per night, depending on season and room category; the latter include traditional, superior, select superior, and deluxe. A variety of special promotions exist, including a honeymoon package with champagne and chocolate covered strawberries on arrival, breakfast in bed and a 45 minute massage for two; a cultural Santa Fe package featuring daily breakfast, a historical walking tour and passes for seven museums, and four Great Southwest Adventures packages focusing on Canyon de Chelly, skiing in Telluride, the White Sands National Monument, and the Grand Canyon are available. View the Inn’s web site for details.

Santa Fe Chamber of Commerce. 505/983-7317. www.santafechamber.com.

Historic Walks of Santa Fe. 505/986-8388. e-mail: historicwalksofsf@earthlink.net. www.historicwalksofsantafe.com. The company also offers day trips to Bandelier National Monument, Chimayo, and Taos.

Images by Joyce Dalton

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