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BONAIRE IS SCUBA HEAVENSecluded island offers 5-star comfortsby Randy Black
Bonaire
features what many experienced divers consider the best diving in the world.
With more than 120 “walk in” or boat dive sites around the small, six-mile by
22-mile island, this former Dutch territory is an world-famous, yet inexpensive
diving Mecca. Add more than 500 species of colorful tropical fish, more than
120 types of coral and 250-foot underwater visibility in reliably calm waters,
and Bonaire is the best of the best.
But
if you want to dive without getting in a boat, simply rent your diving
equipment from any of the numerous dive shops, rent a Suzuki Samurai jeep for
US$34 per day from Getting there
A
number of air carriers operate into Bonaire’s Flamingo International Airport
from gateway cities such as Amsterdam, Lisbon, New York, Newark, Atlanta,
Tampa, Miami, Bogota, Caracas, Sao Paulo and more. Expect to meet a lot of
interesting travelers and scuba divers in Bonaire.
Easy
connections from North American gateways via Montego Bay, on the airline’s
brightly painted jets, make for an early afternoon arrival in Bonaire leaving time
to clear customs, get settled into your hotel or condominium and do some site
seeing before dinner. Strolling
the uncrowded streets of from the island’s capital, Kralendijk (pop 8,000),
you’ll hear Dutch, English, French, Spanish, Portuguese, German, and
Papiamento, the local language. Most citizens are fluent in at least four
language including English. Another thing you’ll notice is that there are no
poverty, beggars or beach vendors on Bonaire. Staying there
Bonaire
features a number of luxurious vacation options along with several “no-frills”
offerings. The
island’s best hotel resort is the Harbour
Village Beach Resort, the island’s only true 5-star hotel.
And
while rooms at Harbour Village are a bit pricey, the meals are not. A full American
breakfast on the shaded porch by one of the two pools is only US$4. Omelets
made to order, cereal, fresh baked pastries, fresh orange juice, you name it,
and it is available. Lunchtime grilled seafoods are also reasonably priced at
Captain Wook’s Marina Bar and Mexican Grill. Captain Wook’s, built to look like
an old sailing vessel, is located overlooking the beach, near the property’s
southern edge. The restaurant features a terrific view of the coast and nearby
Klein Bonaire, great food, cold drinks and, of course, the aforementioned
3-foot long Mildred. Dinner
at Harbour Village’s Admiral’s Tavern is a casual affair featuring steaks,
seafoods, a tempting desert cart and wonderfully attentive service.
You
are probably wondering why I didn’t go on a scuba dive first afternoon on
Bonaire. Certified
divers will know that diving is not allowed on the day of arrival or departure
due to the effects that air travel decompression has on the human body.
Remember those announcements made when your plane takes off? “This is your
captain speaking, our plane is pressurized for your flying comfort,
yada-yada-yada?” That’s
why you don’t dive on day first or day last. Plus, on your first diving morning
on Bonaire, the local scuba police require even experienced divers to attend a
one-hour scuba refresher class at each dive shop. The class includes a review
of the Bonaire Marine Park regulations. It’s the usual “don’t touch or pick up
anything” lecture, but it takes them an hour to tell you and to insure that
you’ve got your scuba card and equipment in order.
Scuba prices
Prices
for equipment rental and boat dives on Bonaire are in a pretty tight price
range. Prices at Bon Bini Divers are typical. A full gear package includes
regulator/octopus, console, BCD, mask, fins and snorkel and costs US$25 per
day. If you rent full gear for five consecutive days, the sixth day is free.
Rent this package and you can shore dive for only US$5 per tank. If you
purchase six boat dives for US$215, the shore dive tanks are free. Their 11
boat dive, unlimited shore dives package is US$315. Do the numbers and you’ll
find that for about US$73 per day, you get all your equipment, two boat dives
per day for five and one half days and unlimited shore dives. Are
you already a certified Open Water diver and you want to get your traveling
companion certified? The full certification for “Open Water Diver” can be
completed over four days and runs about US$330, including full gear. Final note
on prices: Okay, you are a “serious” diver. You already have full gear that
you’re willing to drag from home. All you need is a tank and a beach. Most dive
operations on Bonaire rent the tank for a negotiable weekly rate and then
refill it daily, as often as you ask, for US$5 per fill. You can’t beat that. Shore diving
Don’t
be hesitant about shore diving. I’ve been diving for 12 years and I’ve never
seen a location like Bonaire where there are so many walk-in dive sites so
close to the shore. Coral reefs, sunken ships and interesting underwater
creatures are only a short distance from the water line everywhere you turn. Cuisine
The
cuisine choices on Bonaire are numerous, ranging from French to
Dutch/Continental to Mexican to Indonesian. There’s even a café specializing in
food from Surinam. With such a wide variety of cuisines, simple dinners range
from less than US$10 in the open-air Karel’s Beach Bar or any of the dozens of
restaurants, along
Kaya Craane, the town’s beachfront boulevard to a lot more in the larger
hotels.
Need a break from diving?
Don’t’ forget to pack fresh water (water bottles are
included if you rent from Cycle Bonaire) and a few snacks for the trip. There
are picnic areas in the park, but nothing else in the way of drinks or food.
And of course, take your camera. There are dozens of Kodak moments. A loooong
telephoto lens will be helpful too. Other interesting diversions include exciting wind surfing
on the east side of the island at the Lac
Bay Resort and kayaking nearby among the mangroves. Rent your wind
surfing equipment from Jibe
City Rentals. Deep sea fishing is available, of course, as are
sailboat charters and tennis. Be prepared
Photos
by Randy Black. (Hotel
guestroom, flamingo and snorkeling photo courtesy of Harbour Village Beach
Resort.) -Updated 11-1-99- |
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TM
Normally,
when the travel brochure states “off the beaten path,” it means, “no one comes
here.” On 
Although
Bonaire is home to a dozen or so excellent diving operations, two of the better
ones are 
From
North America, perhaps the most convenient connections are the recently added
flights to Bonaire on 
The
Harbour Village is located on its own pristine beach a short distance from
Kralendijk.
The Harbour Village is a complete luxury resort with 64 rooms and suites, three
restaurants, a 54-berth marina, a fully staffed tennis center,
and an amazingly luxurious resort spa with massage and beauty treatments. 
From
the efficient and cheerful check-in including complimentary fresh squeezed
lemonade to my one bedroom, two bath, two balconies, luxurious junior suite,
the Harbour Village is a joy to behold. Everyone from General Manager Timothy
Webb to the chambermaid has a smile on their faces and a friendly greeting. The
rooms are without
equal in the Caribbean resorts that I’ve had the pleasure of visiting over the
past twenty years. 
Of
course, the on-property dive shop is NAUI/PADI-certified. Additional resort
amenities include three restaurants, an international, full-service resort spa,
two pools (one with a waterfall), and a seaside bar and grill, complete with
the “house” Iguana, Mildred, a strict vegetarian who is very fond of lettuce
and tomatoes. 
After
lunch on my arrival day, I enjoyed a short snorkel in the crystal clear waters
off the hotel’s spacious, private beach, followed by a snooze under a palm tree.
Upon
completion of the class, divers must purchase a Marine Park entry tag for
USD$10. The pass is good for six months. The fees go for the upkeep and
preservation of the island’s dive sites. 
Of
course, wonderfully fresh seafoods, a delightful variety of fruits, vegetables
and locally baked breads and pastries are available in the sea front markets or
the nearby full-service grocery. For those who rent any of the numerous
kitchen-equipped condos and prefer to do their own cooking, the local markets
are a blessing.
Here is a link to several Antillean 
If you’re not a diver (unlikely if you go to Bonaire), or are traveling with a
non-diver, there are plenty of sites to visit and activities to keep you busy.
Long famed for its Flamingo Sanctuary, Bonaire boasts more than 50,000 of the
pink birds during their annual migration, along with more than 80 other
tropical species, in the parks at the north and south ends of the island. The
north end of Bonaire features the 
Bonaire is located about 2 1/2 hours by jet south of Miami.
It is below the hurricane belt so you shouldn’t worry about the weather. Average year around
temperature is 82ºF. Bring adequate sunscreen since it is very expensive on
Bonaire. Light cotton clothing, shorts, sandals and T-shirts are standard
daytime wear. Nights are almost equally warm. Canadian and US citizens need
birth certificate and a return ticket or passport for entry. For other
countries, check with one of the Bonaire