|
Wadi-Rum Camel Trek
by Belkis Kambach
Photos: Rob Kambach
Wadi Rum is famous for three
things: the spectacular desert scenery; the Bedouin tribe whose tents you can
visit ; and as the background of the legendary Lawrence of Arabia -- whose
footsteps you can trace.
These kind and friendly desert
people settled around the 'Beau Geste' Camel Corps Fort in Wadi Rum, and in
scattered nomadic camps throughout the area. You will enjoy their hospitality,
perhaps sitting by the fire under a starry desert sky sipping a welcoming cup
of Arabic coffee with cardamom or rosemary tea (Jordanian tea is very sweet and
minty and drips down your throat like a warm liqueur). One shouldn't leave without tasting Ntepen (eggplant
sauce). Dining under the family tent affords
the opportunity to experience this way of life firsthand. Samir our Local guide said that when a
Beduoin invites you for diner he is responsible for your life until you leave
his tent, an experience you will remember but it is the Bedouins' roguish humor
and warm hospitality as much as the magnificence of these deserts and mountains
that make a visit to Rum a unique experience.
Wadi Rum is famous for three
things: the spectacular desert scenery, the Bedouins who live in the area and
for being the background of the real Lawrence of Arabia. You can trace the
footsteps of David Lean's Lawrence of
Arabia, since much of the film was shot on location here, and let the fabled T. E. Lawrence come alive
where he was based during the Arab Revolt during World War I, whether through memories
stirred from the screen version or from the pages of history and the actual
exploits of the legendary British officer. The camels are an indispensable part of life in Wadi Rum. They were domesticated thousands of years ago by frankincense traders, from southern Arabia to the northern regions of the Middle East, and went on to become the desert dweller's primary source of transport, shade, milk, meat, wool and hides.
A calf needs only to rub his mum's neck to have fresh milk I tried rubbing my head to the neck of a young mother and it took only minutes to see milk running to feed her young one. A camel's gestation period is
13 months, and a camel cow usually bears a single calf, and occasionally twins.
The calf’s are walking within hours of birth but remain close to their mothers
until they reach maturity at five years of age. When the camel places its foot
on the ground, the pads spread, preventing the foot from sinking into the sand.
This gait suggests the rolling motion of a boat, explaining the camel's "ship of the desert"
nickname. They can go five to seven days
with little or no food and water and come in every shade of brown, from cream
to almost black. Their preferred foods are dates, grass and grains such as
wheat and oats, bones, seeds, dried leaves -- and even its owner's tent! . A fully-grown adult camel stands 6 feet at the shoulder and 7 feet at the hump, weighing up to 1,542
pounds. The normal life span of a camel
is 35-40 years, and a working camel will typically cover 25 miles a day. Samir our Jordanian
guide/driver insisted that although these camels have no leash they know who
their owner is and can easily find their way home and that Bedouins themselves
don't deposit money in the bank; instead they buy camels, and in Jordan it is
still a social class status how many camels a Bedouin owns. This wonderful
animal retains a special place in my heart and my memories of Jordan!. For the rest of my life I will
remember the camels, the sunset in Jordan over flaming red rocks, Arabic music
swirling with the desert wind, our car blazing through the sudden mountains,
driven by Samir taking us deep into the Jordanian desert valley. And Wadi Rum, one of the most impressive deserts
I have ever seen. The rock formations of Wadi Rum are undoubtedly the largest
and most magnificent of Jordan's desert landscapes and one of the most beautiful desert regions in
the world. Wadi Rum is hauntingly beautiful.
Entry Requirements: Visas & Passports may be obtained from Jordanian
consulates outside the country, or from Jordanian immigration authorities at
the airport on arrival. Visas issued at the airport are valid for one month and
can be extended at the Directorate of Foreigners and Borders in Suleiman
al-Nabulsi Street in Amman. In the US at the Embassy of
the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan 3504 International Drive, NW Washington, DC
20008 Tel: (202) 966 2664 / Fax: (202) 966 3110 Airlines: the most frequent international flights are served by the
following airlines: The Royal Jordanian Airline which links Amman with many of
the capitals of Europe, South Asia and the Arab World, and operates wide-body
jets to New York. Many other international air carriers also operate regularly
to Amman. Other airlines that fly to
Jordan include: Gulf Air, Aeroflot, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines , Air France , Air
Yemen , Olympic Airways , Alitalia , Austrian Airlines , Qatar Airways , British Airways , Emirates
Airlines etc. The Queen Alia International Airport south of Amman is one of the
most modern facilities in the Middle East. Driving: Taxis are available and offer a fixed rate per vehicle or per
person to all points from Amman. There
is no public transportation into Wadi Rum but there is good international roads
linking Jordan with surrounding countries, travel within Jordan is efficient
and enjoyable with a good road system constantly being expanded and upgraded,
and most of the sites a visitor would want to see are at most within a few
hours drive from Amman. Jordan's road signs are marked in English and Arabic,
and there are petrol stations and rest houses at regular intervals throughout the
country. From Amman, head south on the
Desert Highway or more scenic King's Highway. Allow around four hours for the
journey. From Aqaba, head north - the journey time is less than one hour. At the Wadi Rum rest stop, you can hire a
four-wheel drive vehicle to explore the area. Or - for the more adventurous -
hire a camel it's easier than you think, and surprisingly comfortable, taking
less than 20 minutes lesson from a Bedouin to learn all the ropes. Where to Stay: Wadi Rum makes a perfect combination before or after
a visit to Petra because preserving the pristine wilderness, there are no
hotels in Wadi Rum itself, but Petra and Aqaba make good bases from which to
explore the desert. The Rest house offers the only restaurant in Wadi Rum, and
there is a small general store beyond the Desert Patrol Fort. This is also the
place to find a guide to help you explore the desert safely. Camping is permitted (for a minimal fee) in the grounds of the
Government Rest house, which also provides showers and luggage storage. Note
that desert nights are cold, even in summer.
Camping is also permitted in the Dana reserve, and the Royal Society for
the Conservation of Nature can provide pillows, blankets, mattresses and tents. A bathroom and kitchen are available. To
make a reservation, contact the RSCN Tel. 837931/2 fax 847411. Private stays with a Bedouin family are a
must and can be arrange there as well. Safaris: there are many travel agents organizing these including
ones from Wadi Rum to Petra -and range from 3- 7 or 10 days An expedition deep into
the desert areas of Wadi Rum all the way down to the Saudi Arabian border and
the Disi mountains living with Bedouins can vary from Rates: from Aqaba, AP, 3
nights in hotels, 6 nights in tents, transfers, 7 riding days, 10 Days /9
Nights for $ 1,895 All incl
and a ( single room / tent
supplement of $ 75 ). There will
also be this year a Millennium Ride
on Dec. 26-Jan for $ 2,150. I booked my trip starting in Israel for a 3 day
tour that included a Wadi-Rum safari and included Petra, two nights hotel and
private guide for 3 days with Amsalem Tours & Travel LTD. (03)9792323 for 210.00$ Riding Skills: For most riders you will ride 5-6 hours each day on
camels or pure-bred Arabians and Arabian crosses. More Jordanian information and related links can be found at: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Cabana/2973/WadiRum.htm http://www.neptune-tours.com/wadirum.htm http://www.dahlan.com/Sights4.html http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/9600/about.htm http://raingod.com/angus/Gallery/Photos/MiddleEast/Jordan/index.html
and The Jordan Information
Bureau 2319 Wyoming Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20008 Telephone: (202) 265 1606
Fax: : (202) 667 0777 More info on Jordan can be
found at: http://home.att.net/~travelwriter/ by Belkis Kambach Travelwriter@att.net |
|
TM
Just a
Wadi Rum is a Bedouin settlement in a valley
with giant 2,000-foot desert cliffs, ancient valleys and towering weathered
sandstone mountains that rise out of the white and pink colored sands. Stunning
in its natural beauty, Wadi Rum, epitomizes the romance of the desert. Tucked
away, remote and splendid in both landscape and culture.
Not being a sand dune style of
desert, Wadi Rum has intriguing hills and rock formations known as
"jebels" that reach a height of about 1,700 metres. Thousands of
years ago, this area was part of the silk and spice route between China and
Arabia. Here is an unspoiled natural beauty forged by millions of years of
geological formation, erosion and evolution. The word "Wadi" means
valley, and Rum a settlement, the home of several semi-nomadic Bedouin tribes
of about 20 Bedouin families that have inhabited the area for generations. Wadi
Rum preserves a centuries-old
For history and antiquities
lovers, Wadi Rum is a vast house of clues from the past--for almost every
valley, mountainside or large fallen boulder has some vestige or hint of human
activity that took place here during the past several thousand years.
Everywhere there are pictographs of Thamudic, Safaitic, Nabataean, Greek and
Arabic texts and some formal inscriptions, rock art depicting hunting scenes.
Traces of ancient civilizations exist in the many of these carved inscriptions.
Ata Allah, "God's
gift," is the Bedouin name for Camelus dromedarius, the 'one-hump'
dromedary. The behavior patterns of this amazing creature are unpredictable at
best as they have the reputation of being bad-tempered and obstinate creatures
who spit and kick. In reality, however, they tend to be good-tempered, patient
and intelligent and are animals of beautiful mannerisms, one of the few animals
whose mum cries when she leaves her young ones to work until the minute she is
reunited again with her young one.
GETTING THERE: